The-Artistic-Garden’s Blog

Be Aware Of How Portland Cement Or Mortar
In Your Recipe Will React To Various Metals

I received a question from a crafter who had read my post about using hypertufa to skim coat vertical walls. She has a metal shed that she’d like to use the technqiue on and wondered if it would work in her situation.

I told her I’d found and saved some information years ago about this very issue and would post it. So … here it is. Anyone who works with a hypertufa or concrete recipe and uses a metal mold, or has something else made from metal that will be embedded into the ‘tufa or ‘crete needs to be aware of this information.

Aluminum
Embedded aluminum roof flashing, aluminum water stops, aluminum electrical conduit, introduced aluminum powder (sometimes used to foam concrete), or embedded structural aluminum shapes may all corrode in concrete or mortar. In all cases, a reaction that forms aluminum hydroxide and hydrogen gas occurs, and may cause expansion and cracking of the concrete or mortar. The common use of calcium chloride (or other alkali compounds), and dampness of the concrete increases the reaction rate. Usually, coating the aluminum with bituminous paint, impregnated paper or felt, plastic, or an alkali-resistant coating will prevent or sharply reduce the corrosion.

Copper
Copper embedded in concrete and/or mortar is usually roof flashing. Embedded copper is practically immune to reaction with corrosive alkalis, even if exposed to constant moisture. Copper will not react with dry, hardened concrete and/or mortar. Rainwater leaching, however, may bring chlorides in contact with the metal. Corrosion may occur and result in a green discoloration or runoff. Consequently, chloride admixtures should not be used in concrete if contact with copper is expected.

Lead
Lead will always corrode when in contact with fresh concrete and/or mortar. The high pH from calcium hydroxide is the cause of the corrosion. Cured, seasoned concrete or mortar will not react with lead. Corrosion of embedded lead flashing in mortar joints will usually result in the production of a lead oxide, a white discoloration. A special case of lead corrosion, called differential aeration, occurs when a lead strip is partially embedded in concrete so that part of the strip is exposed to air. The embedded section has a different electrical potential than the section exposed to air. The result is that the strip will become polar in the presence of moisture. Gradual corrosion and disintegration of the embedded lead will then follow. In such a case, and in all other cases, the embedded portion should be coated with epoxy, varnish, asphalt, or pitch.

Zinc
Zinc is highly reactive with alkalies and will deteriorate to some degree upon contact with fresh concrete and/or mortar. The reaction is limited due to a corrosive film that forms on the outer layer of the zinc. It protects the underlying metal from further reaction. Zinc will not react with dry, seasoned concrete and/or mortar. Embedded zinc will react with moisture and calcium hydroxide to produce calcium zincate. Zinc corrosion may also occur when galvanized iron, in the form of flat or corrugated sheets and rebar, comes in contact with fresh concrete and/or mortar. Galvanized iron is coated with zinc, and will react with moisture and chlorides in the concrete and/or mortar to produce zinc chloride. The result is expansion and cracking of the concrete and/or mortar. The metal should be protected with epoxy, varnish, asphalt, or pitch.

Those Whimpy (And Ugly!) Wire Tomato Cages
Really Aren’t Big Enough Or Strong Enough!

So let’s make good looking, sturdy and long lasting cages from copper tubing!

Right after I posted the Copper Trellis Project the other day, I received a nice email from Odile saying:

Hi Claudia,

I have been a subscriber to your Artistic Gardener newsletter and I just have to tell you how thrilled I am with all of the information you have compiled for all of us and to thank you! I am especially thrilled with this copper tubing newsletter that you sent today regarding a copper trellis.

I was wondering if you had any ideas for tomato “cages” that we could make using the copper tubing? My family and I will be growing lots of vegetables this summer, including tomatoes, and my husband mentioned that we would have to be getting some of those wire tee-pee looking tomato cages.

I think they are soooo ugly, and when I saw your newsletter today, a light bulb went off and I thought, what if we could make the cages out of the copper tubing? What do you think? Do you have any idea of the pieces we might use to make this?

Imagine how pretty the patina would be on a copper tomato cage, and how sturdy it would be, and it would probably last forever! I hate those green wire ones from the big box stores – they always bend! Any help you could provide would be much appreciated! Thanks!

Odile K. / Easton, MA

Yes I sure do have an idea for you Odile! I had to do some investigative work about easy-to-find copper parts and the right adhesives, but now I can share an idea that you all can use. This basic design is simple and plain, so I am sure many of you will think of creative ways to embellish or jazz-up your tomato cage.

I have to admit I just don’t have the time to actually construct this project. (Sorry.) So I will walk you through it. But! I discovered some online photos that show a PVC tomato cage designed by a gentleman named Tom, and his configuration is basically the same configuration I had first thought of. (Great minds think alike! )

**My idea was to use 4-way connectors on the top rung of tubing versus the T-connectors, so that you can have short cuts of tubing sticking up above the rung, to add a slight decorative “finish” to your cage.

But of course my brain was thinking about copper tubing. Anyway … I’ll get to Tom’s construction information in a moment.

Let’s Talk About The Parts You’ll Need To Round Up

Here is what you will need to know about parts and such to construct your cage from copper tubing:

• Use 1/2″ copper tubing – the 3/4″ is way more expensive and I think it’s not necessary to use 3/4″ for this project.
• You will use copper 90-degree connectors.
• You will probably have to use PVC 4-way connectors sized for 1/2-inch pipe because for most of us, copper 4-ways will be impossible to find at local stores.
• You will need to use this epoxy to glue everything because it will bond copper to PVC parts (yes – I called the factory to double check!): Super Glue’s Waterproof Epoxy Adhesive.
• Make sure you clean/scour off the oxidation on the copper tubing that will come into contact with the epoxy. The oxidation will most likely prevent a good adhesion of parts.
• Optional: copper end caps to finish off the tubing sticking up from the top rung (if you use the idea I came up with as mentioned above).
• Optional: you may want to invest in a $10 – $12 copper pipe cutter to make this project easier for you – especially if you’re making more than one cage. I think it is well worth the investment, even for one cage.

All of the copper tubing, copper parts, epoxy glue, and the PVC 4-ways are found in most big-box stores. Or of course a plumbing supply store – they might even carry the copper 4-ways, which will really make your cage spiffier looking.

About those white PVC 4-ways: yes, I know … they aren’t going to lend much visual impact to your gorgeous copper tomato cage, but as I have already explained, copper 4-ways are probably going to be near impossible for most of us to find. So here’s a thought about how to camouflage them … how about spray painting them a medium dark green or perhaps black. If you’re letting the copper oxidize (you won’t clear coat it) – it’ll become blueish/green anyway. So similar colored or darker colored 4-ways shouldn’t detract too much visually from the finished cage.

Or don’t worry about the white PVC, because ultimately you’re going to have a huge bushy tomato plant hiding most of the cage, anyway!

Step-By-Step Photos & Instructions To Build The Tomato Cage

Here’s where you’ll find the photos that will clearly show you how to go about this project: Tom’s PVC tomato cage. You will find the instructions there also, but I am taking the liberty to provide an abbreviated version here:

So there you have it everyone – a darn good way to make a not-too-complicated DIY copper tomato trellis. And perhaps you’ll want to make yours completely out of PVC, because you don’t mind white supports around your tomatoes, or because it will be a more affordable project to tackle.

Either way, good luck … I sure hope you have great tastin’ tomatoes this summer!

The-Artistic-Garden disclaimer: I have tried without success to find a way to contact Mr. Matkey to ask permission to refer to his project. I have done my best to give him full credit for, and to link directly to his project information. Mr. Matkey if you are reading this please contact me. Thank you.

Say Goodbye To Toxic DEET Bug Sprays
And Hello To A Safe Homemade Repellent

Here in my part of of the USA, it’s time for the moquitoes to start rearing their ugly little heads. As a matter of fact, I got my first bite two days ago, while being outside ONLY ONE MINUTE to empty my kitchen scraps into the compost bin!

I don’t know about you, but my whole life I’ve been a magnet for mosquitoes. They choose me first to bite over anyone else standing close to me. The bigger irritation (not to make a pun) is that I’m quite allergic to their bites, so not only does each bite turn into a large angry red bump, but it also makes me suffer for weeks – 3 at least! And the itching! Let’s say I hate mosquitoes!

But all this being said, I also dislike spraying myself with smelly repellents. I also don’t like the idea of spraying myself with something toxic like DEET. Though the active ingredient in most bug sprays, N, N-diethyl-meta-toluamide, or DEET, has been shown to be effective, it has also come under fire in recent years by health researchers. (Learn more.)

So, what does a person like me do? Fortunately with consumer awareness becoming what it has these past few years, over-the-counter repellents with natural, non-toxic ingredients are becoming more and more available.

Or, there are very effective do-it-yourself concoctions that many folks swear by. So, today I thought I’d share these homemade natural repellents that a family member and a neighbor use and say work very well. But you be the judge.

One important thing you have to remember is that with any natural repellent you need to find what works with your body chemistry. What most people do not realize is that each person’s body has its own unique chemistry make-up and you have to find the mix of natural stuff that will work on you.

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Essential Oil Repellent Recipe

1-1/4 tsp. Rose geranium oil
1-1/4 tsp. Citronella oil
1 Cup 190-proof grain alcohol

The essential oils can be found in health food stores; the grain alcohol can be purchased in a liquor store.

Place ingredients in a jar with a tight fitting lid and shake well. Fill a small spray bottle (such as the 4 oz. travel size bottles you can find at drug stores or Wal-Mart) and spray yourself, and your clothes if desired. **Make sure to first test the oils on your skin to make sure you won’t an irritation.

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Rubbing Alcohol

Yup! Plain old rubbing alcohol splashed or sprayed on your body will supposedly stop mosquitoes from biting. I have a neighbor who swears by this one. No bad smell and really cheap to use, too.

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I have read of one or a combination of these oils doing a very good job at repelling mosquitoes. But again remember – you might have to experiment some to see which oils “work” with your body chemistry.

Essential Oils: Basil, Cedarwood, Citronella, Clove, Eucalyptus, Juniper, Lavender, Lemon, Myrrh, Palmarosa, Pine, Rose geranium, Rosemary, Tea Tree

Carrier Oils: Almond, Jojoba, Olive, Soybean

Mix in a ratio of 1-part essential oil to 10-parts carrier oil or grain alcohol.

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I’m going to try the Essentail Oil Recipe this year. I’ll let you know if it works for me. If you have a tried-and-true homemade mosquito repellent you’d like to tell us about, please leave a comment. I’d appreciate it!

Avoiding Project Mishaps When Adding Water
To Your Dry Hypertufa Ingredients

Without a doubt, the amount of water mixed in with the dry hypertufa recipe’s ingredients is the most critical and determining factor of success or failure! Let’s call it your “make it or break it” ingredient. Why do I say this, you ask? Well …

Nearly every crafter who is new to working with hypertufa adds in too much water. (This mistake also applies to newbies who are trying to mix up a concrete recipe.) Too much water makes a recipe mixture that slumps badly. In other words, slumping means that your wet hypertufa just sort of slips off the sides of whatever you are applying it to. And there it is, sitting in a very wet blob on your work surface.

Even just an itty-bitty too much water can cause problems. Though you may think you’re doing quite well because you are able to keep the ‘tufa clinging to the vertical sides of your mold, just a hair too much water most likely will guarantee that you’ll end up with “weak” hypertufa. Weak meaning though it may appear to be curing properly, it might crack or crumble when you go to unmold it. Or it might survive the unmolding, but may fall apart during the hardening (curing) phase. Or it might make it through all of the cure … and then fall apart on you soon thereafter.

Yes … working with anything containing Portland cement can be tricky. Even professionals who pour concrete driveways and sidewalks (as examples) can have sloppy disasters on their hands if the ratio of water gets goofed up. So … how do you get the hang of how much water is or isn’t just right for a successful batch of hypertufa? I’ll tell you …

But first – as I ALWAYS encourage everyone who is new to working with hypertufa or concrete recipes – PLEASE do yourself a favor a try your hand at a small project. In this way if you do have a disaster, you’ll not have wasted a lot of ingredients. As a matter of fact, I have a beginner’s recipe on my website, which can help save you a little money if you want to give hypertufa a try and see if it’s something you really enjoy working with: Hypertufa Recipe For The Beginner.

Back to learning about the water ratio … understand that the consistency of wet mix you want SHOULD NOT look like the concrete you see being poured for sidewalks, driveways, patios and the like. No … what you want is more of a peanut butter consistency. A wet mix that you can hold in your hands and form a nice ball with, and when you give it a squeeze just a DROP (or two) of water will drip from it.

The magic trick to estimating the right amount of water for success is to add in the water in VERY small increments, and then stir, stir, stir! Wait a moment and if it appears dry and crumbly, add in a LITTLE bit more. Then stir, stir, stir again. Err on the side of your mix looking just a bit dry versus it appearing to look “just right”.

Walk away from your wet mixture at this point for about 10 minutes. Really! You know why? Within 10 minutes the recipe is going to go through a slight chemical change and the water is being absorbed even more by the dry ingredients.

After 10 minutes come back. How’s the batch of ‘tufa look? Can you make a ball of hypertufa in your hand as I explained before? If your mix is just a bit dry … then add only a tiny bit more water. Maybe a tablespoon or so and stir, stir, stir. Your mix should be ready to be applied at this point.

This is about all I can teach you about the right amount of water for a hypertufa recipe. (Sorry I can’t be standing right there next to you to demonstrate!  ) As the saying goes “Practice WILL make perfect”!

But what I and almost every other person who has worked with hypertufa have found, is that it is amazing that you can be mixing and carefully and slowly adding the water, and you’ve almost got it just right and then you think, “Hey! I’ll add just another little splash of water”, and … it’s a splash too much! Perhaps only one tablespoon was all that was really needed.

The result from that extra splash? Hypertufa that begins slipping, sliding and slumping down the sides of your mold.

I’m not trying to scare you away from trying your hand at making something with hypertufa. Not at all! What I’m trying to do is alert you to what is the #1 biggest mistake most every crafter makes in the beginning. Disaster can strike even after we’ve had many successful projects, normally because we get a little lax in paying attention to the careful addition of water.

So again, let me stress, though many crafters are successful in their very first attempt of working with ‘tufa and end up with a nice large trough or planter, I can only encourage you to start small. Get the hang of working with hypertufa recipes and then graduate to larger projects.

Good luck!